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The Hidden Gem of South America: Backpacking Paraguay

Smack in the middle of South America lies one of this continent’s best-kept secrets: Paraguay. This country, situated between Argentina, Brazil, and Bolivia, lures bold travelers with its primeval wilderness, rich history, and warm hospitality.
The broke backpacker will find the shoestring charm of Paraguay and its off-the-beaten-path appeal simply impossible to resist. On a shoestring daily budget that really can stretch farther than you ever could have thought possible, you will find yourself uncovering hidden waterfalls, exploring colonial towns, and finding the real rhythms of Guarani culture.
From the steamy Chaco National Park to the vivid streets of Asunción, the diversifying landscape and resilient people of Paraguay will surely delight one’s senses and tear down preconceived notions. Come along as we explore Paraguay’s unvisited corners, embracing beauty in budget travel and freedom from the open road.

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How to get there:

From Argentina

  • Bus: Companies like Expreso Brasilia, Ormeño, and Ñande bus connect Buenos Aires to Asunción (approx. 12-14 hours, $20-40 USD).
  • Train/Bus Combo: Take the train from Buenos Aires to Posadas (9 hours), then transfer to a bus to Asunción (4-5 hours, $15-30 USD).

From Brazil

  • Bus: Companies like Ormeño, Util, and Expreso Brasilia link São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro to Asunción (approx. 20-24 hours, $40-80 USD).
  • Border Crossing: From Foz do Iguaçu, take a bus or taxi to the Friendship Bridge, then walk across to Ciudad del Este, Paraguay.

From Bolivia

  • Bus: Companies like Ñande bus and Expreso Brasilia connect Santa Cruz to Asunción (approx. 16-20 hours, $30-60 USD).
  • Border Crossing: From Villamontes, take a bus or taxi to the border, then transfer to a Paraguayan bus to Asunción.

From Uruguay

  • Bus/Ferry Combo: Take a bus from Montevideo to Concordia (6 hours), then a ferry to Posadas, Argentina, and finally another bus to Asunción (10-12 hours, $30-60 USD).
  • Border Crossing: From Chuy, take a bus or taxi to the border, then transfer to a Paraguayan bus to Asunción.

When to go:

Summer (December to February)

  • Hot and humid weather (95°F/35°C)
  • Peak tourist season, higher prices
  • Carnaval celebrations in February
  • Best time for beach activities at Lake Ypacaray

Autumn (March to May)

  • Mild temperatures (75°F/24°C)
  • Fewer tourists, lower prices
  • Ideal for hiking and outdoor activities
  • Experience the vibrant Festival de San Pedro in April

Winter (June to August)

  • Cooler temperatures (60°F/16°C)
  • Lowest tourist season, budget-friendly
  • Perfect for exploring cities and cultural attractions
  • Enjoy the Encuentro Internacional de Jazz in July

Spring (September to November)

  • Pleasant temperatures (75°F/24°C)
  • Shoulder season, moderate prices
  • Witness the stunning blooming of Lapacho trees
  • Participate in the Fiesta de la Independencia in September

Special Events and Festivals

  • Asunción’s Fiesta de la Ciudad (August)
  • Villarrica’s Fiesta de San Juan (June)
  • Encarnación’s Carnaval (February-March)

Best Time for Broke Backpackers

  • April-May: Comfortable temperatures, fewer tourists, and lower prices
  • September-October: Enjoy spring festivities and mild weather

Best Itineraries:

3-Day Itinerary: Asunción Essentials

Day 1:

  • Explore Asunción’s historic center (free)
  • Visit the Palacio de López (free)
  • Wander through the Mercado Abasto (free)
  • Stay at a budget-friendly hostel (~ $10 USD/night)

Day 2:

  • Visit the Catedral Metropolitana (free)
  • Explore the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (10,000 PYG, ~ $1.50 USD)
  • Enjoy traditional Paraguayan cuisine at a local market (~ $5 USD/meal)

Day 3:

  • Take a bus to the nearby town of San Bernardino (~ $3 USD)
  • Relax on the shores of Lake Ypacaray (free)
  • Return to Asunción for departure

1-Week Itinerary: Eastern Paraguay

Day 1-3: Asunción (follow 3-day itinerary)

Day 4:

  • Take a bus to Ciudad del Este (~ $10 USD)
  • Explore the bustling market streets (free)
  • Visit the nearby Iguazú Falls (~ $10 USD)

Day 5:

  • Take a bus to Encarnación (~ $10 USD)
  • Visit the Jesuit Missions (10,000 PYG, ~ $1.50 USD)
  • Enjoy the city’s vibrant nightlife (~ $5 USD/beer)

Day 6:

  • Explore the nearby waterfalls of Salto Cristal (~ $5 USD)
  • Return to Encarnación

Day 7:

  • Return to Asunción or continue to other destinations

2-Week Itinerary: Central and Northern Paraguay

Day 1-7: Follow 1-week itinerary

Day 8:

  • Take a bus to Villarrica (~ $15 USD)
  • Explore the city’s colonial architecture (free)
  • Visit the nearby Sierra de Villarrica (~ $5 USD)

Day 9:

  • Take a bus to Concepción (~ $20 USD)
  • Explore the city’s historic center (free)
  • Visit the nearby Rio Apa (~ $5 USD)

Day 10-14:

  • Explore the Chaco National Park (~ $10 USD)
  • Visit the indigenous communities (~ $5 USD)

1-Month Itinerary: Off the Beaten Path

Day 1-14: Follow 2-week itinerary

Day 15-21:

  • Explore the Gran Chaco region:
    • Visit the Fuerte Olimpo (~ $5 USD)
    • Explore the Rio Paraguay (~ $10 USD)
    • Stay with local communities (~ $10 USD/night)

Day 22-28:

  • Discover the Misiones region:
    • Visit the San Juan Bautista (~ $5 USD)
    • Explore the Cerro Corá National Park (~ $10 USD)
    • Enjoy local cuisine and traditions (~ $5 USD/meal)

Day 29-30:

  • Return to Asunción, reflecting on your incredible journey
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Food:

Paraguayan cuisine is a treasure for the travelers because it is an amalgamation of the whole indigenous, Spanish, and African influences. The country’s hearty foods more often than not include flavors and traditional ingredients that make their food culture an identification of themselves.
Immediately upon arrival, you will be struck by the predominance of meats, especially asado, chorizo, and chivito. Most meals are rice, beans, tortillas, and fried yuca. It all sounds so unsophisticated, but, believe me, you will want more of the taste and texture.
Sopa paraguaya is one such national dish, a savory cornbread-like affair made with beef broth, onions, and cheese. The name is somewhat misleading-it’s not actually a soup at all; it is a thick, heavy cake. You’ll see it on menus throughout the country, often served as a main course or side.
You will also find street food aplenty in Paraguay, everything from grilled meats to empanadas to tortillas from vendors. Mercados are great places to test local specialties, too, like payagua mascada and locro.
Neighboring influences are easy to see in the national cuisine. Asado, in the style of neighboring Argentina, is a favorite among locals and tourists alike. Churrasco, or grilled meats in the style of southern Brazil is also easy to find. However, Paraguayan cooks have finally managed to place their own unique spin on these traditions.
Desserts are invariably sweet and rich with cakes and pastries smothered in dulce de leche. Alfajores are a South American favorite: cookies sandwiched with dulce de leche and covered in powdered sugar.
Washing it all down are traditional drinks like mate, or yerba tea; tereré, a cold version of mate; and caña, or sugar cane liquor. These drinks are integral to the social culture of the Paraguayans and are very much shared among friends and family.
Paraguayan cuisine may be less celebrated than that of its Argentine or Brazilian brethren, but flavors and traditions abound to satisfy even the most discerning tastes. So come hungry, ready to delve into this culinary country.

Culture:

Paraguay boasts a distinct culture shaped by its indigenous, Spanish, and African heritage. This landlocked nation’s history, traditions, and customs are woven together to create a vibrant tapestry that’s waiting to be explored.

Indigenous Roots

Paraguay’s cultural foundation lies in its indigenous Guaraní people, who inhabited the region long before European arrival. Their language, Guaraní, is still widely spoken today, alongside Spanish. This unique blend of tongues has given birth to a distinct Paraguayan identity.

Spanish Influence

The Spanish conquest in the 16th century brought Catholicism, European customs, and architectural styles to Paraguay. The country’s colonial past is evident in its historic cities, such as Asunción, with its picturesque plazas and ornate churches.

African Rhythms

African slaves, brought by Spanish colonizers, infused Paraguayan culture with their vibrant music, dance, and culinary traditions. The polka, waltz, and harp music popular in Paraguay today reflect this African influence.

Resilience and Hospitality

Paraguayans are known for their warm hospitality and resilience. Having endured wars, dictatorships, and economic struggles, the nation has developed a strong sense of community and adaptability. Visitors are often welcomed with open arms and invited to share in traditional meals and celebrations.

Traditional Music and Dance

Paraguayan folk music, characterized by the harp, guitar, and accordion, echoes through the countryside. The polka, particularly, is an integral part of Paraguayan culture, often performed during festivals and gatherings.

Craftsmanship and Art

Paraguayan artisans excel in woodworking, pottery, and textiles. Intricately crafted harps, guitars, and other instruments are highly prized. The nation’s vibrant arts scene showcases a mix of indigenous and European influences.

Festivals and Celebrations

Paraguayans love to celebrate, and their festivals reflect the country’s rich cultural heritage:

  • Carnaval: Colorful parades and music fill the streets before Lent.
  • Dia de la Independencia: Paraguay’s independence is commemorated on May 14th.
  • Fiesta de San Juan: Celebrations honor Saint John the Baptist on June 24th.

Social Etiquette

When interacting with Paraguayans:

  • Respect for elders is deeply ingrained.
  • Direct eye contact and warm greetings are essential.
  • Sharing meals and drinks is a sign of hospitality.
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Accommodations:

As a poor backpacker, this is pretty important: a place to stay that’s both affordable and decent. Paraguay’s hostels range from some ridiculously dirt cheap jewels all the way to ones that are a bit more expensive. But here’s the secret: the best hostels are normally the cheapest.
Looking for a hostel in Paraguay, the prices of dorms with shared bathrooms start at $5-10 USD per night, while private rooms with shared or private bathrooms cost from $15-30 USD per night. Many hostels also include communal kitchens and lounges, free Wi-Fi, and laundry facilities. Most of them even offer tour bookings and travel advice to make the most out of your stay.
Choosing a hostel: Check their location and try to stay at hostels in the middle of town that are within walking distance from the main attractions. Read online reviews from other travelers for the feel of the atmosphere and how clean the hostel is. But do not be seduced by expensive hostels; very often, the cheapest option offers the most value.
The cheap hostels of Paraguay will be the real finds, offering genuine local experiences, cozy atmospheres, and friendly staff at really low prices. It is in such hostels that you get a real taste of Paraguayan culture and hospitality, as they dip you right into the local way of life.
In Asunción, a selection of hostels would be: Hostal La Morada or Hostal El Viajero, where you will obtain friendly hospitality and a fair night from about $5-8 USD. In Encarnación, a similar experience would be achieved with Hostal El Puerto and also with Hostal La Casa de los Abuelos from $6-10 USD a night. For Ciudad del Este, alternatives are: Hostal El Mercado and Hostal La Frontiera, also starting at $5-8 USD per night.
Also, at the time of booking, beware of highly overcharged rooms, low ratings, and filthiness. The A/C and unpleasantness due to the inefficient administration staff make it a big No-NO too. It is advisable to book this service in advance, especially during peak season- June to August, and especially book it online to get the best deal.

Nightlife:

When night starts to fall in Paraguay, this entire country turns into one big, pulsating center of night activities-from folk to light electronic tunes. It is an unforgettable night that every guest can go through in Paraguay’s nightlife.
Asunción pulses with the beat of its capital in a mélange of cultural events, music venues, and dance clubs. You can find locals and tourists alike pouring into the streets to take in the warm evenings. You are carried along by the rhythm of traditional Paraguayan music: polka and harp-driven folk songs.
You will feel at home as you wander around the city with cozy bars and taverns that serve local brews with delicious street food. These are just perfect places to meet fellow travelers and locals, tell stories, and have lots of laughs well into the night.
Further away from Asunción are Encarnación and Ciudad del Este, each with its different nighttime experience. Be part of the infectious energy of local festivals and other celebrations bursting in colorful action: music, dance, and food. Neighboring countries have their own impact on Paraguay’s nightlife. The rhythms inherited from Argentina and Brazil mixed with those of the Paraguayan turn up the voltage and keep you dancing until dawn.
The nightlife in Paraguay is very alive, but it tends to be much more affordable. A cold beer or the local cocktail might be a fraction of what it would cost back in one’s own country. This will be an easy way to get into the local culture without blowing one’s bank account.
Being like any destination that has night life, one consideration does involve taking care of one’s safety. Stick to areas that are reputable, be very cognizant of one’s surroundings, and show respect for local customs.
Nightlife in Paraguay forms a livewire part of their culture-be it traditional folk, modern electronic, or a simple energetic feel, one finds it all in Paraguay for sure.

Backpacking Paraguay costs:

Daily Expenses:

Accommodation: $2.50-5 USD (hostel dorm)
Food: $1.50-2.50 USD (street food)
Transportation: $0.50-1.50 USD (local bus)
Attractions: $1-2 USD (museums)
Miscellaneous: $2.50-5 USD (souvenirs, snacks, etc.)

Total daily budget: $10-20 USD

Weekly Expenses:

Accommodation: $17.50-35 USD (hostel dorm)
Food: $10.50-17.50 USD (street food)
Transportation: $3.50-10.50 USD (local bus)
Attractions: $7-14 USD (museums)
Miscellaneous: $17.50-35 USD (souvenirs, snacks, etc.)

Total weekly budget: $70-140 USD

Monthly Expenses:

Accommodation: $70-140 USD (hostel dorm)
Food: $42-70 USD (street food)
Transportation: $14-42 USD (local bus)
Attractions: $28-56 USD (museums)
Miscellaneous: $70-140 USD (souvenirs, snacks, etc.)

Total monthly budget: $280-560 USD

Conclusion:

As you reach the end of your journey through Paraguay on a Broke Backpackers’ Budget, you may reflect on those great memories and encounters that defined your adventure. This striking, rarely traveled country shows its jewels to those willing to get off the beaten track.
The singular interplay of native, Spanish, and African elements within Paraguay makes for a cultural tapestry of fascination and modesty-from the vivid streets of Asunción to the most tranquil countryside. Each moment is an opportunity to breathe in the local way of life.
Embracing the uncertainty of shoestring-budget backpacking, you will find real Paraguay: unpolished, raw, and breathtakingly beautiful. The friendliness of the Paraguayan people, the strength of their culture, and the wildness of their nature scar your traveler’s soul in a way it will never forget.
As you leave Paraguay, remember what it’s all about: the whole point of backpacking is not the place; it’s about the journey. Times shared with fellow travelers over laughter, invitations by locals on spur-of-the-moment decisions, and quiet, reflective moments in the midst of chaos-this is a lifetime of memories.
Paraguay might not have figured in your list, but it will surely leave an indelible mark on your mind. The subtle charm of the natural beauty, along with the rich cultural heritage and the hospitality, manages to make the place incomparable and a place that aspires to call you back for more.
So, as you head out once again onto roads, trails, and fields on your ongoing backpacking odyssey, take with you some of that Paraguayan spirit: dance into the void, embrace the unexpected, and bear in mind that so often the most unforgettable experiences await not at the centre but just beyond the edge of your comfort zone.

Happy travels, and may the road rise up to meet you.

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