Broke in Yemen: How To Backpack Yemen for less

Tucked away on the southwestern corner of the Arabian Peninsula, Yemen is a land of mystery and misconceptions. Many tourists had not even thought to visit this place, due in part to its past that was torn by turmoil, but Yemen really hides valuable ancient history, intense culture, and breathtaking natural beauty worth exploration. But can you do it on a broke budget? Absolutely!
This comprehensive guide takes you through the things you shouldn’t miss, the cheapest places to stay, and the most delicious street food to make your Yemeni adventure absolutely unforgettable. From the busy streets of Sana to the ancient city of Shibam, from stunning beaches of Socotra to majestic mountains of Haraz-we show you how to make your way around this incredible country without breaking the bank.
For those ready to veer off the beaten path in search of warm hospitality, rich heritage, and unspoiled landscapes, Yemen awaits. Join us now as we journey deep into the heart of Arabia on empty wallets.

How to get there:

From Saudi Arabia:

  1. Jeddah to Sana’a: Take the SAPTCO bus from Jeddah to the Saudi-Yemeni border (around 10 hours). Then, transfer to a shared taxi to Sana’a (around 4 hours).
  2. Riyadh to Sana’a: Take the SAPTCO bus from Riyadh to the Saudi-Yemeni border (around 14 hours). Then, transfer to a shared taxi to Sana’a (around 4 hours).

From Oman:

  1. Muscat to Mukalla: Take the ONTC bus from Muscat to the Omani-Yemeni border (around 12 hours). Then, transfer to a shared taxi to Mukalla (around 2 hours).

From Djibouti:

  1. Djibouti City to Aden: Take the ferry from Djibouti City to Aden (around 24 hours). Then, transfer to a shared taxi to Sana’a (around 6 hours).

When to go:

  • Winter (December to February): Cooler temperatures, ideal for exploring cities and historical sites.
  • Spring (March to May): Mild weather, perfect for trekking and outdoor activities.
  • Summer (June to August): Hot temperatures, ideal for beach relaxation and island-hopping.
  • Autumn (September to November): Comfortable temperatures, great for city exploration and cultural events.

Regional Variations:

  • Socotra Island: Best visited during the summer months for optimal beach and snorkeling experiences.
  • Haraz Mountains: Ideal for trekking and hiking during the spring and autumn seasons.
  • Desert regions: Avoid visiting during the summer due to extreme heat.

Festivals and Events:

  • Sana’a Summer Festival (June): A celebration of Yemeni culture, music, and art.
  • Socotra Island Festival (July): A showcase of traditional Socotri music, dance, and handicrafts.
  • Eid al-Fitr (dates vary): A significant Islamic holiday, experience the local customs and traditions.
  • Hajja Festival (August): A cultural celebration in the Hajja Governorate, featuring music, dance, and poetry.
  • Taiz Festival (September): A festival showcasing Taiz’s rich cultural heritage, including music, theater, and art.
  • Ibb Festival (October): A celebration of Ibb’s agricultural heritage, featuring traditional food, music, and dance.

Safety Considerations:

  • Avoid traveling during Ramadan (dates vary): Some attractions and businesses may be closed or operate on reduced hours.
  • Be aware of local tensions and conflicts: Stay informed about regional developments and exercise caution.

Best Itineraries:

3-Day Itinerary:

  • Day 1: Sana’a
    • Explore Old Sana’a, a UNESCO World Heritage Site
    • Visit the Grand Mosque and the Souk (market)
    • Wander through the narrow streets and take in the unique architecture
  • Day 2: Sana’a to Kawkaban
    • Take a shared taxi to Kawkaban (around 1 hour)
    • Hike to the top of Kawkaban Fortress for stunning views
    • Explore the nearby village and interact with locals
  • Day 3: Kawkaban to Sana’a
    • Return to Sana’a and visit the National Museum
    • Enjoy traditional Yemeni cuisine and shisha in the evening
    • Reflect on your incredible journey and the beauty of Yemen

1-Week Itinerary:

  • Day 1-2: Sana’a
    • Explore Old Sana’a and the surrounding area
    • Visit the Grand Mosque, Souk, and National Museum
    • Wander through the narrow streets and take in the unique architecture
  • Day 3-4: Shibam
    • Take a bus to Shibam (around 4 hours)
    • Explore the ancient city and its unique architecture
    • Visit the nearby fortress and take in the stunning views
  • Day 5-6: Socotra Island
    • Fly to Socotra Island (around 1.5 hours)
    • Explore the island’s stunning beaches and unique wildlife
    • Take a boat tour to explore the surrounding waters
  • Day 7: Return to Sana’a
    • Fly back to Sana’a and reflect on your incredible journey

2-Week Itinerary:

  • Day 1-3: Sana’a
    • Explore Old Sana’a and the surrounding area
    • Visit the Grand Mosque, Souk, and National Museum
    • Wander through the narrow streets and take in the unique architecture
  • Day 4-5: Haraz Mountains
    • Take a shared taxi to the Haraz Mountains (around 2 hours)
    • Hike and trek in the stunning mountains
    • Visit nearby villages and interact with locals
  • Day 6-8: Shibam
    • Take a bus to Shibam (around 4 hours)
    • Explore the ancient city and its unique architecture
    • Visit the nearby fortress and take in the stunning views
  • Day 9-11: Socotra Island
    • Fly to Socotra Island (around 1.5 hours)
    • Explore the island’s stunning beaches and unique wildlife
    • Take a boat tour to explore the surrounding waters
  • Day 12-14: Return to Sana’a and depart

1-Month Itinerary:

  • Week 1: Sana’a and surrounding area
    • Explore Old Sana’a and the surrounding area
    • Visit the Grand Mosque, Souk, and National Museum
    • Wander through the narrow streets and take in the unique architecture
  • Week 2: Haraz Mountains and Taiz
    • Take a shared taxi to the Haraz Mountains (around 2 hours)
    • Hike and trek in the stunning mountains
    • Visit Taiz and its historic sites
    • Explore the nearby villages and interact with locals
  • Week 3: Shibam and Al Mukalla
    • Take a bus to Shibam (around 4 hours)
    • Explore the ancient city and its unique architecture
    • Visit Al Mukalla and its stunning beaches
    • Take a boat tour to explore the surrounding waters
  • Week 4: Socotra Island and departure
    • Fly to Socotra Island (around 1.5 hours)
    • Explore the island’s stunning beaches and unique wildlife
    • Take a boat tour to explore the surrounding waters
    • Depart from Socotra Island or return to Sana’a for departure

Transportation:

Buses:

  • Sana’a: The capital city has an extensive bus network, connecting major neighborhoods and nearby towns.
  • Intercity buses: Regular services connect major cities like Sana’a, Taiz, and Aden.

Taxis:

  • Private taxis: Available in major cities, but more expensive than shared taxis.
  • Shared taxis: A cheaper option, where you share with other passengers.

Shared Taxis (Mashrooha):

  • Fixed routes: Connect major cities and towns.
  • Flag down: Hail one on the street, and negotiate the fare.

Trucks (Tawwariq):

  • Cargo trucks: Used for transporting goods, but also carry passengers.
  • Flag down: Hail one on the street, and negotiate the fare.

Tips and Tricks:

  • Bargain: Negotiate fares, especially in shared taxis and trucks.
  • Be prepared: For crowded and bumpy rides.
  • Respect local customs: Dress modestly and respect local traditions.
  • Learn Arabic phrases: Help you communicate with drivers and locals.

Hitchhiking

Standing off the side of this dirt highway, thumb out with the best of intentions, a sense of trepidation gnawed at me. Yemen isn’t exactly known for its hitchhiking scene-the country is associated more with conflict and instability. But driven by adventure and curiosity, I decided to take the plunge and see whether I could catch a ride.
As it happened, I wasn’t on the road very long at all when a rusty old pickup pulled over; its driver flashed a warm smile in my direction and invited me aboard. As we rattled down the road, Ahmed-who turned out to be the driver-kept asking questions about my journey and shared stories of his life in Yemen with me.
Over the course of the succeeding days, I hitchhiked across the countryside, encountering characters which would forever be etched in my mind. There was Mohammed, the jolly truck driver who shared his lunch with me; Fatima, the veiled woman who giggled and chattered with me in the backseat; and Ali, the young boy who practiced his English with me while bouncing along the desert roads.
What really took my breath away about hitchhiking in Yemen was just how easy and hospitable it was. Despite the fearful reputation of the country, its people proved warm and welcoming, even eager for contact with outsiders. Time and again, food and drink, shelter was foisted upon me by total strangers who became fast friends in a matter of minutes.
Of course, not all of it was easy: bad roads, extreme heat, and sometimes frustrating moments with the language barrier. It was those extra aspects of adventure and accomplishment that came along with each successful ride.
It is within this hitchhiking experience in Yemen that I’m reminded of the power of human connections and the fact that our assumptions about the world are just that. And in this country often reduced to headlines and stereotypes, I found a soft weave of stories, traditions, and people waiting to be discovered.
So, when you go to Yemen and plan on hitchhiking, just do it. You don’t know who is waiting down the line or what story will come your way.

Top things to do:

Sana’a:

  1. Old Sana’a: Explore the ancient city, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
  2. Grand Mosque: Visit the stunning mosque, one of the oldest in the world.
  3. National Museum: Discover Yemen’s history and culture.
  4. Souk: Wander through the vibrant market, filled with spices, textiles, and more.
  5. Wadi Dhahr: Explore the scenic valley, with ancient villages and waterfalls.
  6. Kawkaban Fortress: Visit the historic fortress, offering stunning views.
  7. Jabal Nuqm: Explore the mountain, with ancient inscriptions and stunning views.
  8. Bab al-Yemen: Visit the historic gate, a symbol of Sana’a’s rich history.

Shibam:

  1. Ancient City: Marvel at the well-preserved ancient city, known as the “Manhattan of the Desert”.
  2. Fortress: Explore the historic fortress, offering stunning views.
  3. Valley: Take a hike through the scenic valley, surrounded by towering cliffs.
  4. Seiyun: Visit the nearby town, with its ancient castle and vibrant market.
  5. Tarim: Explore the historic town, with its ancient architecture and vibrant market.

Socotra Island:

  1. Beaches: Relax on the stunning beaches, with crystal-clear waters.
  2. Unique Wildlife: Spot the island’s endemic species, such as the Socotra starling.
  3. Caves: Explore the island’s impressive caves, featuring ancient fossils.
  4. Hiking: Take a hike through the island’s rugged terrain, offering breathtaking views.
  5. Qalansiyah: Visit the picturesque fishing village, with its colorful boats.
  6. Dihamri: Explore the scenic village, with its ancient architecture and stunning views.

Haraz Mountains:

  1. Trekking: Hike through the stunning mountains, with scenic views.
  2. Villages: Visit traditional villages, with unique architecture.
  3. Waterfalls: Marvel at the picturesque waterfalls, surrounded by lush greenery.
  4. Manakhah: Explore the historic town, with its ancient castle and vibrant market.
  5. Hajjah: Visit the historic town, with its ancient architecture and stunning views.

Taiz:

  1. Old City: Explore the historic old city, with narrow streets and ancient buildings.
  2. Museum: Visit the Taiz Museum, featuring artifacts and exhibits.
  3. Souk: Wander through the vibrant market, filled with local goods.
  4. Ashrafiya Mosque: Visit the stunning mosque, with its intricate architecture.
  5. Al-Qahira Castle: Explore the historic castle, offering stunning views.

Aden:

  1. Old City: Explore the historic old city, with British colonial architecture.
  2. Beaches: Relax on the stunning beaches, with crystal-clear waters.
  3. Waterfront: Take a stroll along the scenic waterfront, with seafood restaurants.
  4. Crater: Explore the natural wonder, a volcanic crater with stunning views.
  5. Little Aden: Visit the nearby town, with its ancient architecture and vibrant market.

Mukalla:

  1. Beaches: Relax on the stunning beaches, with crystal-clear waters.
  2. Old City: Explore the historic old city, with its ancient architecture.
  3. Souk: Wander through the vibrant market, filled with local goods.
  4. Al-Kasr: Visit the historic castle, offering stunning views.
  5. Ras Fartaq: Explore the scenic cape, with its stunning views and ancient ruins.

Food:

Perhaps the best thing about Yemeni cuisine is how affordable it is. Eating out in Yemen is super cheap; a filling meal of saltah or mandhi costs as low as 500-700 Yemeni rials, approximately $2-3 USD. Even in Sana’a, a rather filling plate of kabsa or fahsa is well available for less than 1,000 rials, about $4 USD. Fresh produce and spices are also ridiculously cheap, making self-catering extremely affordable for tourists on a broke budget. You’ll be able to eat a really different variety of delicious Yemeni dishes every day for just $5-10 USD per day, without breaking the bank. Whether you dine on street food, visit local restaurants, or buy ingredients from a souk, Yemen’s low cost of food will please your stomach and your wallet.

Traditional Yemeni Dishes:

  1. Saltah: A hearty stew made with meat, vegetables, and a unique blend of spices.
  2. Maraq: A flavorful broth served with rice, meat, and vegetables.
  3. Mandhi: A slow-cooked meat dish, typically lamb or chicken, served with rice and spices.
  4. Kabsa: A mixed rice dish made with meat, vegetables, and spices.
  5. Fahsa: A rich meat stew made with lamb or beef, served with flatbread.

Ingredients and Spices:

  1. Cardamom: A common spice used in Yemeni cuisine, adding a unique flavor to dishes.
  2. Cumin: Used to add warmth and depth to various dishes.
  3. Coriander: Used in combination with cumin to create a distinctive flavor.
  4. Turmeric: Adds a bright yellow color and earthy flavor to dishes.
  5. Chilies: Used to add heat to various dishes.

Food Culture:

  1. Hospitality: Food plays a significant role in Yemeni hospitality, with guests often being served traditional dishes.
  2. Family gatherings: Food is a central part of family gatherings and celebrations.
  3. Street food: Popular street foods include grilled meats, flatbreads, and stews.

Challenges and Opportunities:

  1. Food security: Yemen faces challenges in ensuring food security due to conflict, climate change, and economic instability.
  2. Agricultural development: Opportunities exist for agricultural development, particularly in the production of coffee, honey, and spices.

Culture:

Yemen, boasts a rich cultural heritage shaped by its strategic location, history, and Islamic traditions. From ancient civilizations to modern-day customs, Yemeni culture is a fascinating blend of Arabian, Mediterranean, and African influences.

Ancient Roots

Yemen’s cultural heritage dates back to the ancient Sabaean Kingdom (8th century BCE), known for its impressive architecture, irrigation systems, and trade networks. The Queen of Sheba, a legendary figure, is said to have ruled over this kingdom, leaving behind a legacy of wisdom, wealth, and cultural achievements. The Sabaeans were skilled craftsmen, farmers, and traders, laying the foundation for Yemen’s rich cultural heritage.

Islamic Traditions

Islam plays a significant role in Yemeni culture, with the majority of the population adhering to the Islamic faith. Mosques, madrasas, and other Islamic institutions are integral to Yemeni society, fostering a sense of community and spiritual growth. Islamic traditions and values shape daily life, from prayer and fasting to hospitality and respect for elders.

Hospitality and Respect

Yemenis are renowned for their warm hospitality and respect for guests. Visitors are often greeted with a traditional greeting, “As-salamu alaykum” (peace be upon you), and offered a cup of sweet tea or coffee. Respect for elders, tradition, and community is deeply ingrained in Yemeni culture. Guests are treated with dignity and generosity, reflecting the country’s strong social bonds and community spirit.

Music and Dance

Yemeni music and dance are characterized by their unique blend of Arabian and African rhythms. The traditional “danza” dance, performed during weddings and celebrations, showcases intricate footwork and colorful costumes. Music is an essential part of Yemeni culture, with traditional instruments like the oud, qraqeb, and tanbura adding to the country’s rich musical heritage.

Art and Architecture

Yemeni architecture is a testament to the country’s rich cultural heritage, with ancient cities like Sana’a and Shibam boasting intricately designed buildings, mosques, and fortresses. Traditional crafts like pottery, weaving, and silverwork are also an integral part of Yemeni culture, reflecting the country’s history as a trading hub.

Cuisine

Yemeni cuisine is a flavorful reflection of the country’s cultural diversity, with popular dishes like saltah, mandhi, and kabsa showcasing the use of local spices, meats, and vegetables. Traditional Yemeni coffee, made from high-quality coffee beans and cardamom, is an integral part of social gatherings and hospitality.

Challenges and Opportunities

Yemen faces numerous challenges, including conflict, poverty, and cultural heritage preservation. However, efforts are being made to protect and promote Yemen’s cultural heritage, including the restoration of historic sites and the documentation of traditional customs. International organizations and local initiatives are working together to safeguard Yemen’s cultural treasures for future generations.

Accommodations:

Sana’a:

  1. Sana’a Hostel: Starting from $5/night, this hostel offers dorms and private rooms.
  2. Al-Hamra Guesthouse: Rooms from $10/night, with shared facilities.
  3. Sana’a Hotel: Budget-friendly option with rooms from $20/night.
  4. Old Town Hostel: Starting from $8/night, with dorms and private rooms.
  5. Burj Al Salam Hotel: Budget-friendly option with rooms from $25/night.

Taiz:

  1. Taiz Hostel: Dorms and private rooms from $5/night.
  2. Al-Janad Guesthouse: Rooms from $10/night, with shared facilities.
  3. Taiz Hotel: Budget-friendly option with rooms from $25/night.
  4. Al-Shohada Hotel: Starting from $15/night, with rooms and shared facilities.
  5. Taiz Palace Hotel: Budget-friendly option with rooms from $30/night.

Aden:

  1. Aden Hostel: Starting from $5/night, with dorms and private rooms.
  2. Al-Qasr Guesthouse: Rooms from $15/night, with shared facilities.
  3. Aden Hotel: Budget-friendly option with rooms from $30/night.
  4. Gold Mohur Hotel: Starting from $20/night, with rooms and shared facilities.
  5. Aden Residency: Budget-friendly option with rooms from $35/night.

Mukalla:

  1. Mukalla Hostel: Dorms and private rooms from $5/night.
  2. Al-Rahman Guesthouse: Rooms from $10/night, with shared facilities.
  3. Mukalla Hotel: Budget-friendly option with rooms from $25/night.
  4. Al-Furat Hotel: Starting from $15/night, with rooms and shared facilities.
  5. Mukalla Residency: Budget-friendly option with rooms from $30/night.

Socotra Island:

  1. Socotra Hostel: Starting from $10/night, with dorms and private rooms.
  2. Al-Hala Guesthouse: Rooms from $20/night, with shared facilities.
  3. Socotra Hotel: Budget-friendly option with rooms from $40/night.
  4. Socotra Eco-Lodge: Starting from $30/night, with rooms and shared facilities.
  5. Socotra Beach Resort: Budget-friendly option with rooms from $50/night.

Nightlife:

Yemen’s nightlife scene may not be as vibrant as other countries, but there are still some great spots to enjoy a night out. Here’s a guide to the best nightlife areas, bars, clubs etc.

Sana’a

  • Al-Qasr Street: A popular area for bars and cafes, offering a range of drinks and snacks.
  • Sana’a Nights: A nightclub located in the Mövenpick Hotel, featuring live music and DJs.
  • Old City: Explore the historic district’s hidden gems, like Cafe al-Mansour, offering traditional Yemeni coffee and snacks.
  • Hadda Street: A lively area with a range of bars and restaurants.

Aden

  • Tawahi: A coastal area with a lively nightlife, featuring bars and clubs like:
    • Cairo Nightclub: A popular spot for dancing and live music.
    • Aden Beach Club: Enjoy beachside drinks and snacks.
  • Al-Muallaqa: A popular spot for cafes and bars, offering stunning views of the city.
  • Khormaksar: A bustling area with a range of bars and restaurants.
  • Gold Mohur: A popular spot for drinks and snacks, offering stunning views of the city.

Taiz

  • Al-Masbah: A vibrant area for nightlife, featuring bars and clubs like:
    • Horizon Nightclub: A popular spot for live music and DJs.
    • Taiz Nights: Enjoy drinks and snacks in a lively atmosphere.
  • Al-Jamal: A popular area for cafes and bars, offering a range of drinks and snacks.
  • Al-Aroos: A popular spot for traditional Yemeni coffee and snacks.

Mukalla

  • Ras Marshag: A coastal area with a relaxed nightlife scene, featuring bars and cafes like:
    • Mukalla Beach Cafe: Enjoy beachside drinks and snacks.
    • Al-Rasheed: A popular spot for traditional Yemeni coffee and snacks.
  • Al-Hamra: A popular spot for drinks and snacks, offering stunning views of the city.

Other Regions

  • Ibb: Visit Ibb Nights for live music and drinks in a lively atmosphere.
  • Hodeida: Explore Hodeida Beach for relaxed beachside bars and cafes.
  • Socotra: Enjoy the island’s unique nightlife scene, featuring traditional Yemeni music and dance.

Important Notes

  • Nightlife in Yemen can be subject to local regulations and restrictions, especially for women.
  • Some areas may have specific dress codes or rules, so it’s best to check ahead of time.

Backpacking costs:

Daily Budget

  • Accommodation: $5-10 (shared room or hostel)
  • Food: $3-5 (street food, local markets, or shared meals)
  • Transportation: $2-5 (local buses, taxis, or shared rides)
  • Attractions: $2-5 (historical sites, museums, or local tours)
  • Miscellaneous: $2-5 (souvenirs, snacks, or unexpected expenses)

Total Daily Budget: $14-30

Weekly Budget

  • Accommodation: $35-70 (shared room or hostel for 7 nights)
  • Food: $21-35 (street food, local markets, or shared meals for 7 days)
  • Transportation: $14-35 (local buses, taxis, or shared rides for 7 days)
  • Attractions: $14-35 (historical sites, museums, or local tours for 7 days)
  • Miscellaneous: $14-35 (souvenirs, snacks, or unexpected expenses for 7 days)

Total Weekly Budget: $98-210